One of my favorite activities, whether its along the beach or down
the street. Should you get tired, just make your way to the street
and wait a few minutes, a taxi will be by and will give you a ride
anywhere you want to go. A word of warning if you are walking along
the street. The building codes down here are not quite what they
are in the US, so watch where you are going. If you step into a
pothole and twist your ankle, its your fault, not the shop owner's.
That reminds me of a story. A few years ago, in Mexico City, an
American did accidentally fall into a hole in the sidewalk and hurt
himself. He did what every red-blooded American would do, he hired
a lawyer and sued the city. When it came to trial, the city
presented the following evidence. They hired someone to go where
the hole was and watch for several hours at the same time of day
that the American fell in. He counted over 3500 people walking by,
and none of them fell in the hole. Case dismissed.
During the summer the water is in the 80's and feels almost like a
bathtub. During the winter it is a little cooler, but still very
pleasant. The slope of the beach is very gradual, and along the
Zona Dorada you can walk out into the water for over 30 yards
without being over your head. In addition to the ocean, there are
many beautiful pools in the many hotels in the area. Sometimes we
go to one of the hotels and just hang out around the pool and enjoy
the amenities.
Summer WarningDuring July and August there are
many
jellyfishin the ocean, just offshore. Should you
happen to get stung by one of these, don't panic! The stings are
painful but not dangerous, unless you panic and manage to drown
yourself. You can get almost
instant relieffrom the pain by applying a generous
amount of ammonia to the affected area. What? You're not in the
habit of carrying ammonia with you? Actually you probably have some
with you right now in your bladder. Let me tell you a true story.
Nadine and I were walking our doglet,
Gatita, on the beach in June 1997.
She started licking her front paw like crazy, and was obviously in
distress. Once we got home, I relieved myself in a small bowl, and
put her foot into it. A few minutes later, after she licked off the
remains of the "medicine," she was fine and took her nap.
There are also several
snorkelingtours available. The Carboat takes you
to the islands offshore, but there is another tour, run by
Robert Hudson, that takes you over to
Stone Island, where the water is protected by a long reef. Nadine
and I went on this tour and can personally recommend it.
Robertis a great guide, and makes sure
that everyone has a good time. The tour lasts about 3 hours, and
can include a delicious fish lunch if you so desire.
Another place to go snorkeling and have a little sailing adventure
is Deer Island, easily visible from the beach in the golden zone.
Deer Island is the one on the left from the golden zone beach. We
rode a Hobie Cat over to the island, which was half the fun. On a
calm day, it can take about 15 minutes to get there, as you usually
have to
sail upwind.Don't worry if
the boat seems to be heading for Japan, he needs to tack in order
to arrive on the beach. Once there, you can hang out on the beach
or go snorkeling in the shallow and quite clear waters offshore. We
were there with a group from
Friends of Mexico, and
enjoyed the shade and the conversation under a big tent. You can
also walk up to the top of the hill for an even more spectacular
view.
Photos of our experience are
available,including a pretty neat panoramic shot of the
Mazatlan coastline that I stiched together with the trusty
gimp/lib/photo editing
tool.
Mazatlan is just far enough south to get direct exposure to the
Pacific ocean without being blocked by the Baja peninsula.
Consequently you can catch some nice waves here. Surfing is usually
done at the Cerritos beach, north of Mazatlan about 5 minutes by
car. Some other good spots are Pinos, next to Ciencas de Mar by
Paseo Claussen, and Punta Camarón near the Sheik Restaurant. Be
careful though, as both of these areas are rocky near the shore,
and you don't want to crash yourself and your board on the rocks
with the breaking surf. You can rent full sized surfboards for $20
per hour, plus a guarantee with a credit card. Boogie boards are
available everywhere on the beach for $3 per hour.
The breeze usually kicks up in the afternoon, and given the
nice winds and gradual shelf, you would think that windsurfing
would be very popular here. Unfortunately, it isn't. In fact I
recently tried to rent a board and sail, but could not find one
available from any of the operators. If windsurfing is your thing,
you'ld better plan on bringing down your own rig.
Here is a great message I received from David and Lynda Jamesabout their surfing experience here:
For many people, fishing is the reason they come to Mazatlan in the
first place. Mazatlan is the home of one of the largest commercial
fishing fleets in Mexico. It also has a sport fishing fleet that
caters to tourists. Opportunities for good fishing abound all
year-round: swordfish and striped marlin from January to April;
blue marlin, May to December; black marlin, July to December;
sailfish, March to December; dorado, March to December; and tuna
all year. Starting in 1996, a new marina has opened in Mazatlan,
and you can sail your own boat down here take it out fishing to
your hearts content. Moored at the El Cid marina is the Aries
fleet, which includes six vessels from 30 to 45 feet in length.
Depending on the size of the boat, you can cruise along at a
leisurely 12 knots or a zippy 25 knots. The cost ranges from $275
to $350 for a full day of fishing. Tackle is included, and all six
boat offer Penn International gear from 30 to 80 pound class.
Please note that fishing license, bait, box lunches and beverages
are not included. Each of the boats is equipped with a Billfish
Foundation tag kit, and the crews will release the fish at your
request. For those of you who want to bring home your trophy, the
fleet must comply with a one billfish per boat per day limit. For
more information about the Aries fleet call Jeronimo Cevales at
011-52-669 916-3468. You can also try calling Mark at
011-52-669-916-56-09, who always goes out of his way to make sure
his guests have a good time. He owns his own private boat, and is
fully licensed and authorized to take you out to sea. Note: Mexican
law requires that anyone over 16 must have a valid fishing license.
You should be able to obtain one at the sport fishing marina or the
port office, if your tour operator doesn't do so for you.
| Boat Size | Capacity | #lines | price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 36' | 10 | 6 | $375 |
| 33' | 6 | 5 | $265 |
| 28' | 4 | 4 | $240 |
Dive trips last for 2 hours, including 45 minutes under water. All
of the equipment is included, and the tank holds 3000 pounds of
air. The cost is around $50 and the boat is a 16 foot panga boat.
The location varies depending on the season and where the best
diving is currently. You can also try the snorkeling. You can rent
the snorkeling equipment for around $7 per day. There is a carboat
that goes over to the small islands where the water is calm and the
snorkeling is fun. I received these comments from Frank O'Sullivan,
which I thought I would share with you.
There are different kinds of boats for different kinds of people.
For $35, you can sign up for the
deer island cruise. It departs every morning
except Monday at 9:30 and returns at 2:30. It includes lunch, an
open bar, beach volleyball and snorkeling. It sails around to seal
rock and then back to the island for a picnic. The boat is a large
catamaran called the
Kolonahe. On a small scale, you can rent a
Hobie Catfor $25 per hour, with or without a
skipper. If you elect to be your own skipper, you will be expected
to leave a credit card as a loss deposit. Also
Jet Skisare available for rent. A one person jet
ski goes for $35 per half hour and a 2 person jet ski runs $50 per
half hour. Most vendors require you to be at least 16 years old. I
hesistate to call it a boat, but since it does float on water, I
guess I have to. The
Banana Boatride holds five to seven people, and
costs around $7 per person. I recommend not having lunch just
before embarking on this one.
On the other hand of the spectrum, if you want to climb aboard a really big boat, just time your visit to coincide with when the US Navy comes to town. The US Navy occasionally "parks" some of their ships in the Mazatlan harbour, and gives away supplies to local charities - part of their goodwill mission. Nadine and I were lucky enough to climb aboard and get a tour of the USS Rentz, which was duly photographed and catalogued for posterity here .
Some of you are unluckly enough to own your own boat. Besides the joys of scubbing the decks and mending the hull, you also need to pay to park the thing. Well, there are three marinas in Mazatlan. The El Cid marina charges about $9 USD to $11 per foot per month for that priviledge. the Marina Mazatlancomes in at around $7 to $12 per foot, and the Marina Isla Mazatlan at $5 to $7 per foot. You can probably guess which are closest and furthest from the ocean.
It is difficult to walk along the beach and not get approached by
someone willing to take you for a parasail ride. Don't do this if
you are afraid of heights, once you're up, you won't come back down
until the ride is over. You'll be up in the air for about 10
minutes, and will get
a great view of all of
Mazatlan.The cost is about $25-$30.
Warning, Warning,Danger Will Robinson: Do not do
this when there is a strong wind blowing. The reputable operators
won't allow you to try it, so that only leaves you know who. Also,
the safest ride is with boat that has two people in it, not just
one. The second guy is a spotter, and he keeps his eye on you while
the driver keeps his eyes on the water.
Horseback riding is illegal in the golden zone, which isn't to say
it isn't available, but the availability is spotty. If you like to
ride horses on the beach, visit Stone Island, which is a 10 minute
boat ride across the harbor. There you can rent a horse by the hour
or the day, and ride until you can't walk anymore. They also have
great little open air restaurants there with delicious fresh fish.
The village on Stone Island is also very interesting to visit. You
will really understand life in the slow lane after seeing it.
Another spot for horseback riding is at Playa Bruja. Take a taxi or the Cerritos bus the end of the line, at Playa Bruja.. Walk one block left to beach and look for Ginger's Bi-lingual Horses. (And you thought your dog was smart!) They are open from 10 to 4 every day except Sunday. The cost is $14 dollars and the ride lasts about an hour. You'll be turning around right in front of our former beach house, which is currently the home of my friend, Ron, who owns a tuna canning plant here in Mazatlan. It's the one with the cobalt blue jacuzzi and the domes. If you are nice to Andrés, Ginger's husband and partner, he will treat you to some lovely singing. Also, having met Ginger, I can tell you that she really cares about her animals. You won't find any hungry, miserable horses here. You can reach Ginger at 922-2026. Ginger takes the summers off, starting May 1, and goes to Washington state. But she leaves her friend and partner, Rafael, in charge during the summer, so the horses are still there for your riding pleasure. She will return November 1.
Mountains in Mazatlan? You've got to be kidding. Well, there aren't
really any mountains, but there are some hills a few miles out of
town. I had never been mountain biking before, and out of the blue
I get a call from a guy named
Robert Hudsontelling me that a friend of
his saw my web pages and that he should give me a call. He wanted
me to write up his mountain biking tours, but I told him that in
order to do so, I would have to try them out first. The result is
the picture on the right, proof positive that I'm not a wuss.
Anyway,
Robertcurrently owns about 13 mountain
bikes, and has turned his passion for biking into his profession.
He will only take small groups, to make sure that everyone is
comfortable and receives sufficient attention. There are apparently
several mountain biking areas near Mazatlan, and in fact last year
Mazatlan was the host to a national mountain biking competition. We
rode through narrow single file trails, through dry river beds, and
up and down hills, until I finally cried
Uncle. I think I'll stick to walking on the beach,
but if you enjoy this kind of thing,
Robert Hudsonis the guide for you.
If you just want to rent a bike and meander around town, check out Kelly's Bike shop, located on Camarón Sábalo #204, L-10, in the mini-mall next to the Cyber Cafe and across the street from Domino's pizza. Prices for bikes are around $3 USD per hour, $8 per half day, and $15 for a full day. They have a 3-4 hour guided tour in the hills for about $25USD. The are open from 10 to 2 and 4:30-8:00, Monday through Saturday. Their phone number is 914-1187, and their email address is kellysbike@hotmail.com.
Finally the last item in this genre is renting a moped and let the dead dinosaurs do the pedelling for you. You'll need a valid driver's license, and between $8 and $12 USD in your wallet for each hour of adventure. The company will provide the gas and the helmet. Call Scooters-Mania at 983-2196 and they will deliver one to your hotel at no extra charge. Warning: If you've never ridden one of these before, be careful. They are powerful machines, and I have personally witnessed several people underestimate their power and injure themselves, fortunately not seriously.
You can shop till
you drop in Mazatlan, either in a large enclosed mall or in
any of the hundreds of little tourist shops lining the
streets of the golden zone. If that isn't enough for you, go
downtown and shop some more. Now for some advice you won't
find in the tourist books.
Personally, we find that gold is quite expensive in Mazatlan, while silver is quite reasonable. What is a real bargain is the cost of labor. If you like jewelry half as much as Nadine does, (which is a lot) you might consider doing what we do. We buy the gold and gems in the US, often at auctions, and then bring them down here to a guy named Gustavo. He has a small jewelry story right next door to Banamex in the Zona Dorada, and he is a real artist. He can create anything you want, and if you let him will do more than you expected, and his prices are beyond reasonable. What would cost you thousands of dollars to do in the USA he can do for hundreds.
What kind of items can you expect to find here? Here is a brief
list of the most common items available in almost all souvenier
stores in the golden zone:
Mayan masks, T-shirts, animal models, blouses, ceramic patio
and garden ornaments, ceramic planters, ceramic vegatables, chess
sets, clay wall ornaments, colorful lamps, crucifixes, fountains,
glassware, gold, hammocks, hats, lamps, leather belts, marble
figures, metal mirrors, paper mache animals, patio lamp ornaments,
pewter, pewter picture frames, pottery, sandals, sivler,
sunglasses, telleverra, wall hangings, water pitchers...
One comment I should make about bargaining. It seems to be a way of life in Mexico, except of course in the supermarkets and large chain stores. However all of the beach vendors and many of the souvenier shops expect it, and are almost insulted if you don't try. On the other hand, they'll also be happy to take twice as much money as they were willing to settle for, so the choice is yours.
Golf is another one of the reasons people come to Mazatlan. There
is a first class 27 hole course that is associated with the El Cid
hotel. It is very well maintained, and challenging. The down side
is that it is not open to the public. Only guests of the El Cid
hotel or people renting houses that have club memberships can play.
Green fees range from $30 to $60 per round, plus caddies are
required, which cost another $10. There is also a new golf course
that has just been constructed on Stone Island, out near the
airport. It is called
Estrella del Mar, and is
quite lush and beautiful. The last time I checked their green fees
were $65.
Chances are you came to Mazatlan to hang out at the beach,
have a few cervesas, and gain a few kilos. However, if
you're reading this, you might consider talking to whatever
company you work with and cajoling them into bringing a
group down for a combination vacation and
personal growth experience.Why? Well, there are several
reasons. While it's raining and snowing up north, the sun is
shining and the birds are singing here in Mazatlan. Also, you will
learn a lot about yourself and your co-workers. The fact is, that
while many people consider themselves under stress, it is
fortunately rare that we are ever exposed to life threatening
stress in our daily lives. You can find out a lot about a person
who is in a state of great fear, whether it is real or imagined.
How will you, or they, react? Will they give up, hide, cry, run,
plunge ahead, help others, self sacrifice, or just muddle through?
I can tell you from personal experience that unless you are a
professional circus performer or stunt man, you will experience an
elevated sense of fear and anxiety if you attempt the ropes course.
You can also experience an elevated sense of triumph and
satisfaction if you can get past the anxiety. I truly believe that
pretty much any group of people, especially a group that is working
together, or even a family, will find that they will know more
about each other and grow closer after having completed this
experience. The fear and anxiety are real, but the danger is not.
The ropes course has a
web presenceor you can
read more about my personal
experiencesif you're interested.
Note:The ropes course and climbing wall
disappeared sometime in the summer of 2004, sorry. I'll leave this
here just to prove I did it!
This is my game, and I play almost every day. Here is a picture of
Gustavo Dominguez, my tennis teacher. You can find me at the El Cid
courts every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from about 8am until
10am playing doubles with the viejos. On Tuesdays and Thursdays
from 7 to 8am I have a lesson with him. If you are interested in a
lesson, go to the clubhouse and sign up. Be warned, he doesn't
miss.
There are many tennis clubs in Mazatlan, and Mexican tennis
players are very tough. They really hate losing, which they don't
do very often. No matter where you stay, either your hotel will
have a tennis court on the grounds, or they will be associated with
a tennis club where you can play. Since we live at the El Cid
resort, we play on the El Cid courts, which have 4 clay and 5
composition courts. The same restrictions as mentioned above in
golfapply for tennis as well.
There is a Bingo event every Tuesday evening from 6pm until
8pm at
Canucks Restaurantin
Olas Altas. Besides Bingo, there are often raffles and
AphroditeT Shirts (yes really) for sale.
All proceeds go to the
Amigos de los Animales.The
caller is Sally Ross, pictured here on the right.
During the winter season, both duplicate bridge and Bingo are played in Mazatlan. The bridge group meets Monday thru Friday at the Hotel Playa Mazatlan. Newcomers are welcome, and partnerships can be arranged. The times vary, so call the hotel for exact information. They meet Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 1:30pm and Tuesday and Thursday at 7:00pm. There is also a bingo game every Thursday evening at the Inn at Mazatlan, and every Wednesday night at El Paraje restaurant from 4:30 until 6:30.
There's a new game in town (March 2000), and it starts with b,
which rhymes with p and isn't pool, but bowling. Of course Nadine
and I had to check it out. It's been under construction for about
two years, and we must have driven by it literally hundreds of
times. Was it worth the wait? Well, I must admit they did a really
nice job on the building and the bowling alley. The lanes are first
rate, and the computerized score keeping displays have animations
that are even more entertaining than watching the players. There
are plenty of balls available, and even though I usually have
trouble finding one that fits me in the US, I had no trouble
finding one here. The atmosphere is fun, with background music that
isn't too loud and plenty of waiters and other staff around to make
sure everything is running smoothly. My only complaint, other than
my lack of bowling talent, is about the price. Each game costs 40
pesos, which is $4.50US at the current exchange rate. Throw in
another 30 pesos for shoes, and it starts to add up pretty quickly.
The guy behind the desk seemed apologetic about the prices, so I
guess the management knows they are on the high side, but we did
have a good time, and I'm sure we'll be back. I took a
couple more of the
interior,which you're welcome to peruse.
If you've go the endurance, Mazatlan has the party. Actually there
is a nice wide spectrum of night life available, from dining while
being serenaded by mariachis, to dancing to the megaton bass of
million dollar sound systems. There are roving bands of mariachi
musicians all along the golden zone. They will often play one song
for free, and then ask you if you would like to pay for a second
song. Be sure to agree on a price before they start playing the
second song. A nice place, right on the beach, for dinner and
mariachi music is El Costa Marinero. My favorite song is
Guantanamera, which all the mariachi bands can play.
If dancing is your thing, there are at least two spectacular discos in town. One is Valentinos, which is right across from the Sheik restaurant.You can start with dinner at the Sheik, and walk over to Valentinos for dancing. Another is El Caracol at El Cid and near the La Concha restaurant. El Caracol is a three level disco, with the dance floor on the bottom level. All the discos have a dress code, and beach wear, especially sandals are unacceptable. Also the discos don't open until 10:00PM, and the in crowddoesn't show up until after midnight. They usually close down around 4 or 5AM. All have a cover charge.
For another choice, there is the Mexican Fiesta. The best and oldest takes place three times a week at the Hotel Playa Mazatlan. It starts with mariachi music, followed by dance music where the guests can work up an appetite on the dance floor. Next there is a buffet dinner, and a folkloric show, featuring singers and dancers in native costumes. The show is very good, and Nadine's father goes to see it every time he comes down to visit, which is at least once or twice a year.
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